Pescadería, 10 - Parte Vieja (Old Town)

Not everything is as it seems in Zeruko, so prepare to be surprised in this modernist bar in San Sebastián’s old town. Is that a glazed tomato? No, wait…

The pintxos here are elaborate works of art. Amazingly innovative creations are beautifully presented in an overwhelming display that covers the bar – it’s a feast for the senses. Grab a plate, choose your pintxos and then hand them over to your server who will whisk away the ones that need to be heated. The creamy sea urchin is awesome.

It’s such a captivating array, but don’t forget the blackboard of made-to-order dishes, just inside the door. A particular favourite is La Hoguera (The Bonfire) – a tender sliver of cod which you cook yourself over a mini barbecue of smoking coals, served with a herby mayonnaise and a test-tube shot of liquid salad. Yum!

Everything is reasonably priced. If you’re lucky enough to get a table, try the Menú Degustación (a tasting menu of 7 dishes, plus a dessert). You can make a reservation for this too.

Zeruko can be really crowded, and its popularity is a testimony to the variety and quality of the experimental food served here. So either get here early or be patient, be brave and get stuck in. The hype is justified – it’s an experience not to be missed!