San Jerónimo, 21 - Parte Vieja (Old Town)
Try Ganbara for the best crab tartlet in the city, or splash out on a plate of meaty griddled mushrooms, served with a silky egg yolk.
Less of a bar than it used to be, more of a restaurant - you'll probably queue to get in and be pointed to a spot at the bar or counter to sit at before you can order.
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